Country bliss in Suipacha

Every time I go to Buenos Aires, my parents take me on day trip to the country. On my latest visit, we went to the town of Suipacha. It is located 126 kilometres west of Buenos Aires and is an important dairy centre. Let me rephrase that: it’s cheese lovers heaven.

Recently, local dairy and cheese farmers (and one wild boar breeder) got together with local authorities and created the Cheese Trail /Ruta del Queso (link in Spanish.) Visitors can either book a guided tour around cheese farms (which includes tastings) or visit them on their own (call ahead first. Some charge a small amount).

We chose to visit a purebred European boar farm, a family business established in 2002. The owner himself led the guided tour of the facilities. His passion for his business was contagious and his knowledge, vast. Among the things I learned is that the piglets (boarlets??) coats change with age: first they’re spotty, then stripy, then a solid dark gray when they become adults. Adult boars are ugly beasts but the piglets are so cute!

The owner playing with Jacobo the Boar
A few adult boars feeding. The piglets were in the nursey, out of bounds for visitors.

Suipacha is a quiet town. So much so that when my dad asked the waiter of a cafe if the place was always this quiet, he said it feels like Sunday every day. Lots of peace and quiet and a very low crime rate seem ideal to me.

The town's centre and main street. Not exactly heaving with activity...

We stopped at an antiques shop, which we don’t normally do. In the shed across the street, they had an amazing collection of furniture from all decades in different states of repair. A carpenter was restoring a wooden table and was kind enough to talk to us about the furniture. We then went inside the shop for a browse. I’ve always coveted an old china tea set and my wish was granted. I purchased a set manufactured in Turnstall, England, by W.H. Grindley and Co. Ltd. It looks like it’s from the 1940s; I did some research online but haven’t found the pattern’s name.

According to a potter’s website, W. H. Grindley used this mark between 1936 and 1954, so I wasn’t wide of the mark. The teapot still has tea stains. I wonder who owned it before, what their life story is. I imagine a newly-wed young woman having her friends round to tea to show off the good china. They all wear floral dresses and their hair in soft waves and curled under. They sit round a mahogany table to gossip and exchange recipes, with the smell of a freshly baked cake wafting from the kitchen.

I'll be really grateful if anyone can provide info on this pattern.

Argentina Road trips Suipacha

Ana View All →

Hi, I’m Ana. I’m originally from Argentina but I’m currently living in Dallas (USA) with my British husband. I’d like to share my experiences as an expat and as a traveller.

4 Comments Leave a comment

  1. You had me at “Cheese Trail,” although the visit to the boar farm looks like it was fun and interesting. They are ugly suckers, though, aren’t they? 😀


    • Katie, the food we tasted at the end of the visit was delicious: boar ham and bondiola. I also bought some goat’s cheese from Piedras Blancas. It was really good.


  2. THis could be Holland! A “cheese trail”? 😀 Really interesting! I love these typical small towns in the province – they are quite charming and there’s always something intersting to visit.
    I like your new set! Did you take it back with you to the US?


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